Times
have changed, and the American food revolution
that swept across the Mainland in the 70’s—cultivating
appreciation for regional cuisine as diverse
and fiery as Cajun through Californian Pan-Asian—eventually
found its way to Hawai‘i. Everywhere one
turned, a new and exciting twist was being spun
on traditional foods.
Unusual ingredients and techniques enlivened
plates (and palates) from coast to coast, and
deep into the Pacific. It was in the late 80’s
that the wave of culinary enlightenment washed
the isles of Aloha.
Riding that crest were a dozen young, innovative
chefs, who, inspired by the potential of island
produce, traditional fare and the exciting developments
on the Mainland and beyond, bound together: An
informal alliance of talented, creative minds
who would later be dubbed pioneers of the “Hawai‘I
Regional Cuisine Movement,” emerged.
The dynamic dozen—Roy Yamaguchi, Alan
Wong, Jean-Marie Josselin, Sam Choy, Amy Ferguson
Ota, Beverly Gannon, Peter Merriman, Mark Ellman,
George Mavrothalassitis, Roger Dikon, Philippe
Padovani and Gary Strehl—all share a mixed
ethnic heritage, which has become the hallmark
of Hawai‘i.
The Aloha state has become a cultural melting
pot at the crossroads of the world, united by
a common goal: to feature fresh, local ingredients
and prepare foods in a manner that captures the
flavor and vibrancy of the Hawaiian islands.
Some describe the resulting cuisine as Pacific-Rim,
others call it Euro-Asian, East-West or Hawaiian
Fusion. But whatever the label, a delicious dawn
had undoubtedly broken over the 50th state. |
